Fiber can be rated by two different scales:
- Micron: the thickness an individual fiber in microns (lower the number, the finer the fiber. Between about 15 and 40.)
- Bradford: the number of skeins that could be made from one pound of fiber (higher the number, the finer the fiber. Between about 30 and 100.)
5 general categories of fiber and sheep:
- Fine: Merino, Rambouillet, (also alpaca, kid mohair, cotton, cashmere)
17-23 microns, 62-90s Bradford, 2-4" fibers (short)
Easy to felt, large amounts of lanolin (oil), tight crimp, elastic, soft, puffy
Best for babies and next to skin
- Medium: Corriedale, Columbia
23-31 microns, 50s-60s Bradford, 3-6" fibers
Defined crimp but less compact, stronger, less soft and fine
Best for sweaters, mittens and hats
- Down: Dorset, Suffolk, Southdown (meat sheep from the Downs of England)
23-40 microns, 54-60s Bradford, 2-4" fibers (short)
Disorganized crimp, matte surface, elastic, doesn't felt well
Best for sweaters, socks, mittens
- Long/Lustre: Lincoln, Romney, Border Leicester
29-40 microns, 36-50s Bradford, 5-12" fibers
Luster like mohair, long, coarse, crimp is a soft open wave, less elastic, very strong
Best for tapestry, rugs, outerwear
- Other: Karakul, Navajo, Churro, Shetland
Often have two coats - an outer coat that is long and course and an inner coat that is soft and short
Shetlands, for one, are not a very developed breed, and the fiber is often inconsistent across the fleece (according to Tracy of McTavish Farm).
Things to look for in a fleece:
Even crimp, does not break, springs back, makes a "ping" noise, no second cuts, clean, fresh (if a fleece sits in a barn for a year without being washed, the lanolin will congeal and be hard to remove), no mats, no dry/brittle tips, no musty smell from being stored wet with moths and mildew
Fun fact: Wool can hold a third of it's weight in water before feeling wet.
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